A Very Scilly Holiday

It was an alarmingly wet and windy forecast for the week of our family holiday to the Isles of Scilly. This was definitely not what we had been hoping for, but in the end the weather was much better than predicted and we only got wet on one day. The wind, however, meant that the seal snorkelling we had booked was cancelled and we were unable to take any wildlife boat trips.

The Scilly Isles lie twenty-eight miles offshore as the crow flies

Some of us caught the small plane over to the Scillies from Newquay, but most of us either drove or caught the sleeper train down to Penzance and travelled over on the Scillonian:

The Scillonian III as she arrived back into Penzance harbour ready for our trip to The Scillies the next morning. Because she crosses at the point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Celtic Sea and since she has to be quite flat-bottomed to enter the harbour at St Mary’s in all tide conditions, the ship has unfortunately earned herself the nickname the vomit comet

It was indeed a very rough crossing out but at least we got to enjoy Lizzie’s seasickness glasses:

The blue liquid rotates around all four of the lenses to create an artificial horizon, said to reduce motion sickness. Lizzie feels that they did help her

We were staying on Tresco, an island where twenty red squirrels were reintroduced in 2013 and have since thrived with the population now growing to more than a hundred:

Sallys photo
Sallys photo

The Gulf Stream creates a mild, generally frost-free climate on the Islands, allowing a wonderful variety of succulents to grow:

A garden on Bryher

And Echiums were everywhere:

Echiums on Bryher

I did, however, notice that there weren’t the numbers and variety of invertebrates around that we would be seeing at home at this time of year. We were pleased to see this very large and hairy grass eggar moth caterpillar on Bryher though:

This caterpillar was about 65mm long. The grass eggar is a moth of sand dunes with light vegetation, sea cliffs and coastal shingle which is exactly where we found it

It was also nice to see black oil beetles, Meloe proscarabaeus, both on Bryher and on Tresco:

These beetles secrete a foul-tasting oily fluid from their joints as a defence against predation. Their lifecycle is also fascinating – their larvae hang around in flowers waiting for a visiting mining bee so that they can latch on to its fur and be carried back to the bee’s nest. The beetle larvae will then live off the bee larvae and pollen stores over the winter as they develop into adults

Green tiger beetles were also seen in the heathy area to the north of Tresco:

Hayley’s photo of this ferocious predator of spiders, ants and caterpillars. Jonny and Hayley saw these beetles flying around, although they are most famous for being incredibly fast runners and mostly chase down their prey on the ground

On 9th January this year, Storm Goretti hit the islands hard, with wind speeds of 99mph recorded at St Mary’s airport. The resulting damage from the storm was still very much in evidence:

Walking on Tresco
A huge tree was lost during Storm Goretti in the Tresco Abbey gardens

We were keeping a group bird list and together we saw 37 species over the course of the week, although no doubt we would have done much better had we been able to go on some wildlife boat trips. There were certainly many more song thrush, blackbirds and house sparrows about than we would normally see:

And wherever the habitat got heathy, there were plenty of stonechat:

Tresco also has feral populations of both Lady Amherst’s and Golden pheasants:

Jonny’s photo of a golden pheasant

Dave has always loved to poke around in rock pools and his children consequently knew how to sex a crab and other such matters from a very early age:

This week he had the opportunity to start again with the next generation:

I hadn’t seen a swimming crab before. The fifth pair of legs in these crabs from the Portunidae family are flattened into paddles allowing them to swim:

This crab was soft because it had shed its shell and was hiding whilst waiting for the new, larger one to harden. We tucked it back safely away because they are really vulnerable in this state

A shanny, Blennius pholis, is a fish of the rocks and stones of the lower shore:

Epitonium clathrus, the common wentletrap:

Tresco is separated from the neighbouring island of Bryher by a narrow strait of water:

Cromwell’s Castle on Tresco with Bryher in the distance

But on one day of the holiday the tide was low enough to allow us to walk across to Bryher:

Our group setting off for Bryher

However, the tide was not quite low enough for us to keep our feet completely dry all the way across:

On a previous visit to the islands there was a super-low tide, allowing us to walk from Tresco across to the uninhabited island of Samson which was very memorable indeed.

Staying on Tresco worked very well with our large family group of sixteen since, as well as the long sandy beaches, it has swimming pools, a spa, a well-stocked supermarket, bike hire and several cafes and restaurants. It also had the subtropical Abbey Gardens to admire:

Scilly’s rocky shores have long been treacherous and over the years there have been hundreds of wrecks. The Abbey Gardens has a collection of 19th century figureheads that once belonged to merchant sailing ships or early steam vessels that were lost on the rocks around the Isles of Scilly.

The daymark on St Martin’s Head is a 36ft high granite pillar that has stood there since 1683 and is used for navigation. On a good day it can be seen from the Cornish coast.

In 1830 the Hope was wrecked on St Martin’s Head when the captain mistook the daymark, which was painted entirely white at the time, for the white lighthouse on the island of St Agnes. An unknown West African boy was drowned and is buried in the graveyard on St Martins.

The Slavery Abolition Act received Royal Assent in August 1833, freeing the vast majority of enslaved people in the British Empire by August 1834. However, since the Hope was wrecked just prior to that in 1830, it is supposed that this young man may well have been a slave to one of the families travelling on the ship

As a result of the wrecking of the Hope, red stripes were painted onto the daymark to distinguish it from the white St Agnes lighthouse.

The Scilly Islands are not so very far off the coast of Britain but are set in rough seas. From early November until mid-March, when the Scillonian and all the scheduled inter-island boats stop running, things must feel very different there. One of our group was talking to an islander who said that, at one point last winter, no freight reached the islands for five weeks and this included delivery of fresh food into the supermarkets.

All around are signs of isolated island life:

The daily arrival of the post at Carn Near quay on Tresco
A notice on the pews in Bryher church
As you walk around the inhabited islands you often come upon produce stalls selling succulents, bulbs and home made items, all with honesty boxes

I finish with a photo of the magnificent flower arrangement in Tresco church, all cut from plants growing wild on the island:

This was our third visit to the Scillies, the previous two being in October when the islands are packed with birdwatchers twitching for unusual migrating birds. That was quite exciting, but it was also so lovely to see the islands in flower in May. We are already pretty certain that we will be visiting again someday soon.

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