I went to school in Brighton for two years back in the late 70s and have had a soft spot for the place ever since. Now, half a century on, our son and his wife have moved to Hove and are loving it too. We went to visit them this week and stayed a few nights in an apartment close to Hove seafront.

On our first evening there, we walked east along the seafront to the end of Brighton’s Palace Pier. The essence of the seafront and of Palace Pier itself has remained largely unchanged in the intervening fifty years. The West Pier, however, was looking rather sorry for itself:

The West Pier opened in 1866 and a concert hall was then added in 1916. The pier reached its peak popularity around this time, with two million visitors between 1918 and 1919. However, visitor numbers then started declining and its owners could not no longer meet its maintenance costs. They eventually filed for bankruptcy in 1965 and the pier was closed to the public because of safety concerns in 1975. When I was living in Brighton a couple of years later, it was on sale for a mere £100, so long as you could then guarantee to spend the million pounds or so that was required to repair it. Sadly, this never happened and parts of the pier began to fall into the sea. Two major fires in 2003, thought to be arson, led to it being declared beyond repair:

There is now a golden spiral art installation on the seafront made out of twenty-four cast-iron columns salvaged from the ruined pier:

As we stood on the Palace Pier and looked towards the West Pier, the sun was going down at the end of the day:

And the seafront was alive with young people

Throughout the winter Brighton is famous for its starling murmuration where the birds dance in the sky before settling down to spend the night underneath both piers. By now these birds will have left for their breeding grounds but Dave and I still inspected with interest the pilings where they will be roosting again this autumn:

Jonny took a photo of the Brighton starling murmuration around the Palace Pier back in November:

We were on Hove seafront on the next evening of our stay and there was another amazing sunset:

Brighton is also famous for being the last outpost for elm trees in the UK. In 1967 Dutch Elm disease came to Britain on some infected elm timber from North America. It’s a micro fungal disease carried by the elm bark beetle which feeds on the wood beneath the bark, spreading the disease as it moves from tree to tree. As a result of the arrival of this disease, twenty-five million elms were felled nationwide in an unsuccessful attempt to stop it.
Brighton, however, took a different approach. They pruned out infected branches at the first sight of infection, set bait traps for elm bark beetles at the city limits and dug trenches between neighbouring trees to prevent the disease passing across by root contact. This, together with the natural physical barrier of the treeless South Downs to the north, the English Channel to the south, a prevailing southwesterly wind across sea rather than land and an early warning helpline has helped Brighton keep much of its elm population.

Other than in Brighton, only around 1,000 mature elm trees survive in Britain. Brighton, however still has around 17,000 of them, many planted in Georgian and Victorian times when the city became a fashionable seaside resort. The trees grow well on the chalky soil and in the salty sea air. They weren’t quite in leaf for our visit this week but, once we got our eye in for what the bark looked like, we were pleased to spot elm trees all over the place. It is a sad fact that we had never properly seen mature elms before.

The Preston Twins were a pair of English elm trees (Ulmus minor ‘Atinia’) planted about 1613 in Preston Park in Brighton that were believed to be the oldest and largest English Elms in the world. However, in the summer of 2018 the eastern twin tragically became infected by Dutch elm disease although it didn’t show any symptoms until summer 2019 by which time the disease had spread to the roots. A trench was immediately dug between the two twins to sever any connecting roots in an attempt to save the other tree and the eastern twin was then cut down.
Now, though, the eastern twin has returned, once more standing next to its remaining twin. The artist Elpida Hadzi-Vasileva removed and burned the diseased bark and then preserved the wood beneath, turning it into a sculpture called The Gilded Elm to raise awareness of Dutch elm disease.

The Knepp Estate is a 3,500 acre pioneering rewilding project lying twenty-five kilometres to the north of Brighton. After years of losing money trying to grow arable crops and keep a diary herd on the heavy clay soil, the decision was made in 2000 to stop farming altogether. Instead, roaming herds of longhorn cattle, Exmoor ponies, Tamworth pigs and deer shape the land and the results have been pretty spectacular as wildlife has returned to recolonise the land in droves.
Enormous increases in numbers of critically endangered nightingales, turtle doves and purple emperor butterflies are often quoted as their most notable successes, but there is also so much more to celebrate.
On one of the days we were in Hove, we drove up to Knepp to walk some of the footpaths around the estate.
Looking out over the rewildling project:

Old English longhorn cattle create diverse habitats on the land through their grazing, browsing and churning of the soil:

Thorny scrub patches act as natural cages, protecting tree seedlings from being eaten by the herbivores:

Six raised tree platforms around the estate allow visitors far-reaching views over the land. I am very envious of all their many beautiful oak trees:

This second tree platform looked out over the River Adur that runs through the estate:

In recent years beavers have been reintroduced onto the River Adur, creating further habitat types and increasing biodiversity. Since 2016 white storks, once a breeding bird in Britain, are also being reintroduced. The storks first bred there in 2020 and the colony has been growing rapidly with 53 chicks fledging in 2024.
Some of the original reintroduced storks came from Warsaw zoo where injured wild birds are recuperated. Although they can now fly, they can’t fly well enough to migrate and they remain at Knepp over the winter. On our visit this week the migrating birds are yet to return for the summer, but we still saw four storks:

We also spotted a man-made stork nest on the roof of one of the estate cottages. It looks like this one hasn’t been used yet though:

Using my telephoto lens I got distant photos of the two treehouses that you can stay in on the estate:


This was of particular interest to us because the treehouse on the right is where our son Jonty proposed to his girlfriend, now his wife, Ellie. Touchingly, he was so nervous as he prepared to propose that he tripped over and fell on his face.
Although we ourselves would never choose to live in a city, I can completely see why Jonny and Hayley love Hove so much. It is a vibrant place with some beautiful architecture and many lovely shops, cafes and restaurants.

There is always a lot going on such as the men’s cold-water dipping group that Jonny attends and took Dave along to this week. The men meet on a Sunday morning at Hove beach for sea swimming, connection, and peer support and Dave found the whole experience very uplifting:

I think Dave’s arty photo taken from the Palace Pier as the sun went down is a suitable choice with which to finish this week:

We fitted quite a lot into our few days at Brighton and Hove but there is much more still to do, and we are looking forward to getting to know the city better over the coming years.


















































































































































































































































































































































