The notorious Goodwin Sands lie about six miles off the coast of Deal. Historically nicknamed ‘the great ship swallower’, it is a dangerous ten-mile long sandbank where around 2,000 ships have been wrecked over the centuries.

Due to the dangers, the area was guarded by five lightships in the 19th century. Of these, the South Goodwin Lightvessel had a particularly turbulent history. It was bombed and sunk by the Germans in the Second World War and then, in 1954, its replacement suffered a terrible tragedy. On the night of 26th November, the cables to her two anchors broke in a hurricane-force storm and she was wrecked, killing seven of the eight people on board. The one survivor, who was rescued the next morning having clung to the rigging in raging seas for nine hours, had only been visiting the vessel to record bird migration.

The South Goodwin Lightship has now been replaced by a light buoy. In fact, until this week, the East Goodwin Lightship was the only remaining lightship of the five that once guarded the sands, all the others having been changed to light buoys over the years. She was such an iconic sight, and one that was easily visible from the meadows through binoculars. We got a closer look at her when we took a boat trip out to the Goodwins to have a walk on the sands back in 2024:

Below is a better photo of her, taken in Harwich in 2004, presumably when she was on her way out to the sands to replace an earlier model:

The safety of shipping and the well-being of seafarers have been the primary concerns of Trinity House since being incorporated by Royal Charter in 1514. Their two ships, the Patricia and the Galatea, are responsible for maintaining the navigational aids around the entire coastlines of England and Wales and the Channel Islands.
Because of the number of these navigational aids around the Goodwin Sands, one or other of these ships is often anchored overnight alongside the meadows. But it was completely unprecedented that both of them were here, as they were one night this week:

Later on that morning, we saw them working together further out to sea:

It was a couple of days after this that Dave was sitting at the top of the meadows with his birding scope, hoping to point the East Goodwin Lightship out to some visitors. He was very confused indeed when it seemed to have completely disappeared.
He researched this on returning inside and discovered that the East Goodwin Lightship had just been retired and towed back to Harwich by the Patricia. She has now been replaced by a light buoy which will be much easier to maintain. We presume that this happened on the day that both ships were working here together.


If there are any plans for what is now to happen to the East Goodwin Lightship, we cannot find any reference to them. A list of British Lightvessels on Wikipedia shows that some have become photographic studios, social spaces for yacht clubs, and floating art galleries and museums after they retired. Back in 2023 we stayed at Tollesbury in Essex where LV15 rests her old bones. She retired in the late 80s and was bought by the Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust who provide outdoor activities for kids who sleep onboard the lightvessel, which must be very memorable for them.

Things change and technology marches on, but we will certainly miss that big, red lightship that was always there on duty out to sea.
This week the full-scale replica of the Nao Victoria sailed into Dover and we went to take a look at her. The Nao Victoria was the first ship to circumnavigate the globe. It was one of five ships that left Seville in 1519 to try to find a good route to the spice islands, an archipelago in eastern Indonesia. But after three years at sea, four of the ships had been lost and it was only the Nao Victoria that returned to Spain, having successfully sailed around the entire world.
A full scale replica of the ship was built in 1991 and, between 2004 and 2006, she repeated the journey of the original ship.

This summer she is visiting Dover for ten days and I have to say that she looked really small and such an odd sight moored up at the modern docks:


Whilst we were in Dover to see the Nao Victoria, we also went for a drink in one of Dover’s oldest pubs, The White Horse Inn, in a building which dates back to 1365:

But it wasn’t its great age that brought us there because it is famous for being the Channel swimmers’ pub. For decades, successful Channel swimmers have come to the pub after their swim to sign the walls and ceilings with their name and the date and timing of their swim.

You have to be in awe of Nora of Mexico who seems to have swum the Channel nine times, including a solo swim in 1994 when she swam from England to France and then back to England again in 23 hours 38 minutes:

I have driven past this pub so many times and now at last we have gone in.
The big news in the meadows is that we have finally had some rain! The drought eventually broke a week ago with some overnight rain and, in the refreshing cool of the next morning, I took this shocking photo from my bedroom window as a record of how dry the summer of 2026 has been:

Hopefully we will now start to see some green returning to this view.
With the breeding season over, John, the bird ringer, can once more play bird calls at his nets. The warblers are already on the move and he caught this young reed warbler in the meadows this week:

And he was cross not to have had his nets up when this pied flycatcher called in for a drink this week en route for Africa:

The blackbirds have started on the sloes:

And this is a rather spectacular photo of a magpie:

I am pleased that a barn owl has been hunting in the meadows most nights recently:

And the trail camera took this photo just at the moment that a stock dove lost a feather:

The two young swifts in the nest box attached to the house are continuing to grow well and spend a lot of their day peering out of the box to await the return of their parents:

It is funny to see the little family at night when the four of them attempt to cram themselves into the small feather nest:

It won’t be long now until they are gone.
My last photo for today is of a curious young fox who peered down at our daughter Lizzie and her partner through their kitchen roof-light in Walthamstow one morning:

I think it gave them quite a shock.
I would like to finish by dedicating this post to my aunt Rhona, whose funeral we went to this week in Cardiff. She was a wonderful lady who very much liked to travel the seas herself. She had a long and happy life and was a big supporter of this blog.


























































































































































































































































































































































