Snakes, Lizards and Amphibians in Dorset

All six species of British native reptile can be found in Dorset and this week we spent three days searching for them. We were also looking for the six native amphibians that are in Dorset, as well as two established populations of non-native lizards – it was a very full few days.

The beautiful and historic village of Corfe Castle in Dorset

This was another Naturetrek holiday and several expert herpetologists (amphibian and reptile experts) from the Amphibian and Reptile Conservation Trust (ARC Trust) were our guides for the next few days.

We all met up at Mortons Manor in Corfe Castle at 3.30pm on Monday for an introduction, but in no time at all we were off to Creech Heath, one of the eighty reserves that the ARC Trust own or manage for ‘herps’ in Dorset and Surrey.

All the ARC Trust reserves we visited had tins down which are often used by cold-blooded reptiles to warm up under and are vital for surveying

On this first reserve we found four smooth snakes, Coronella austriaca, sheltering under the tins. By the end of our time in Dorset, we had found over fifteen of them:

A smooth snake. These snakes rarely bask out in the open and so looking under the tins was a really good way to find them. They can grow to 60-70cm in length but are non-venomous, feeding mainly on common lizards, slow worms and small mammals
Gary from the ARC Trust, who has a licence to disturb and handle these endangered snakes, showing us a smooth snake in more detail. This is Britain’s rarest snake which is now only found in mature heathland in Dorset, Hampshire and a few sites in Surrey
The patterning on their head and neck is different for every snake and can be used to identify individuals
Dave holding a smooth snake under Gary’s watchful eye. The scales do not have a raised keel on them and so the snake does indeed feel smooth

We also found a grass snake, Natrix helvetica, under one of the tins:

Grass snakes can grow to well over a metre. They are also non-venomous and amphibians form a staple part of their diet although they do eat small mammals, birds and eggs as well. They are our only egg-laying snake – ten to forty soft-shelled eggs are laid in June or July in rotting vegetation
The amazing underside of a grass snake. The snake emitted a strong and unpleasant smell which I understand is difficult to wash off

The third British snake species is the adder. These are sometimes found warming up under tins, but more often are to be found basking out in the open. Despite turning over so many tins in the numerous ARC Trust reserves we visited, as well as being taught where to look for them basking, we failed to see an adder during this holiday. We were assured, however, that they were definitely around but just keeping out of our way.

An adder, Vipera berus, from Wiki Commons. Photo by wikipedysta Astrum (Mirella Liszka) under CCA-SA2.5. The adder is the UK’s only venomous snake and it likes open habitats on free draining soils like chalk or sand. They grow up to 60cm and feed largely on small rodents and lizards

After dinner on the first day we went off on a trip to look for natterjack toads in the dark. However, we were scuppered by the weather – it had been so hot and dry that all the toads had buried themselves away in the soil.

A natterjack toad, Epidalea calamita, photo from Wiki Commons. Photo by Bernard Dupont under CCA-SA2.0. These toads are very rare in the UK and the ARC Trust is doing a lot of conservation work to try to help them. They live in sand dunes and sandy heaths and breed in shallow, ephemeral pools of water

We did, however, see natterjack tadpoles which was something:

Looking at natterjack tadpoles in a shallow, concrete-lined pool that the ARC Trust has built to improve natterjack toad breeding success

The morning of the second day of the holiday was spent visiting a large ARC Trust reserve called Parley Common. It was here that we got our first glimpse of a sand lizard:

This is a female sand lizard and is recognisable by those eye spots down her flank. Sand lizards, Lacerta agilisare, another critically endangered species, are primarily found in heathland and dunes in Dorset, Surrey and Hampshire. There have, however, been several attempted reintroductions into other suitable areas such as at Sandwich Bay in our home county of Kent and I understand that this population is still hanging on
We saw male sand lizards as well over the course of the trip and these are amazing looking things
A classic D-shaped sand lizard burrow in the compacted sand with evidence of activity outside

The sloughed skin of a smooth snake was found under one of the tins at Parley Common.

As the snake increases in size, it repeatedly needs to shed its old skin and regrow a larger one. The animal is very vulnerable to predation whilst this process is going on and often chooses to do it under the protection of a tin

We found a smooth snake that was about to shed its skin. We knew this because its eyes were milky – the skin is shed from the entire length of the animal including its eyes which go milky as the skin slowly detaches itself before shedding:

There was a dead grass snake under one of the tins:

No cause of death was apparent

Although the snake was only very recently dead, a sexton beetle, Nicrophorus vespillo, had already arrived and will now start to bury the corpse and lay its eggs on it so that its larvae will have a safe food source.

A sexton beetle, one of nature’s recyclers

I know that this is not a very good photo of a Dartford warbler but it’s the best I got and does show its amazing red eye:

We saw several of these heathland-specialist birds

Scarce chaser dragonflies were seen at Parley Common:

Dave’s photo of an immature scarce chaser. Particularly noticeable is the yellow veining on the wings and the beautiful brown eyes, but they often also have black tips to their wings as here. These dragonflies are red listed but have been expanding their range of late, which is good news

In the afternoon we drove to the seaside at Boscombe, a busy suburb of Bournemouth and really quite urban. We were there to see two non-native lizard populations: western green lizards, Lacerta bilineata, and wall lizards, Podarcis muralis.

We did see a western green lizard on the clifftop, but this is definitely not one of my better photos. As I was trying to switch my camera to manual focus to stop the camera focusing on the grass, the lizard moved off:

However, we did see these lizards in La Brenne in central France a few years ago. The male is on the left and the female on the right:

The female has lost her tail at some point and regrown a stubby new one made of cartilage. Apparently these lizards store quite a lot of fat reserves in their tails and this might well have been a big problem for her later in the year as she tried to put on sufficient fat to hibernate.

We saw lots of wall lizards as we descended the zigzag path down Portman Ravine onto the beach:

These lizards have really long tails. They are native to the Channel Islands but not technically to mainland Britain.
This was a really green individual

We stood for a while watching a male trying to interest a female by biting her:

It had been a very long day and we got back to Mortons Manor not much before 7pm. After dinner, we were back out again in the dark to try to see the three native species of newt: smooth, palmate and great crested.

We visited the Green Pool, part of another ARC Trust reserve. After an exceptionally dry spring, the water level was very low which made newt-hunting tricky.

They were not able to catch much from the banks of the pool so they waded in:

There were a lot of water scorpions in the water:

I hadn’t seen one of these before. These predators walk around the bottom of the pond and hide amongst dead vegetation to ambush prey such as tadpoles and newtlets.

We did eventually find all three species of newt in this one pool. Here is a young great crested newt:

Last October we had a better view of a great crested newt when we rescued one that was stuck in a bucket in our daughter’s garden:

We had three amphibian experts with us at Green Pool but all three of them were completely flummoxed by this next newt:

This is a full sized newt yet still has its external gills and has some of the markings of all three newt species. None of them had seen anything like it before and it was taken back to the ARC Trust headquarters to be properly photographed before being returned to the pool the next day

We got back to the hotel at around 11.30pm. Naturetrek holidays are always pretty full-on but this one was on another level with the addition of the after-dinner trips out in the dark to spot amphibians.

On the last day of the holiday it was gently raining but we visited two more ARC Trust reserves. More smooth snakes were found at Great Ovens reserve as well as our first slow worm of the trip:

We were pleased to have eventually seen a slow worm
Male slow worm

The great fox-spider, Alopecosa fabrilis, has recently been rediscovered at Great Ovens reserve. This is one of the UK’s largest and most endangered spider species that hadn’t been seen anywhere in the country for nearly twenty years and was feared extinct.

Great Ovens reserve where great fox spiders have recently been found chasing down their prey in the dark. The largest females have a leg span of 5cm

Rhododendron is absolutely beautiful at this time of year but is actually an invasive nightmare:

Gorse can also be a real problem as well because it just does too well in heathland habitats and is difficult to control. In our final reserve at Lytchett Bay, some of the gorse was covered in webbing made by the red gorse mite, Tetranychus lintearius. This tiny spider mite lives in colonies on the gorse protected by spun silk webs and it is hoped that they can eventually be used as a biological control:

Gorse covered in the webbing of the red gorse mite

We were delivered back to the hotel at 4pm, before starting our drive back to Kent. Over the course of our short herpetological holiday in Dorset we had learned so much from the lovely ARC Trust experts who are working hard to conserve and promote British reptiles and amphibians. In just three days our group had seen five of the six British native reptiles (we never did see an adder), and two additional bonus species of non-native reptiles. We had also seen five of the seven native species of amphibian, just missing the common frog and the pool frog that is not found in Dorset. We had also been introduced to several great ARC Trust reserves that we will certainly be returning to in the future to see if we can finally spot that elusive adder basking in the sunshine.

Going Cuckoo

We have been staying at Elmley Nature Reserve on the Isle of Sheppey, just off the north coast of Kent, twice a year for a while. One trip is in the winter to see the owls and the marsh harrier roost and the other in May when the baby animals are around. On each visit we see different things and come away full of joy at what a wild and wonderful place we have just an hour’s drive away from home.

Kingshill Farmhouse in beautiful May

We arrived there in the sunshine of this week to stay in the Saltbox, our favourite large and comfortable shepherd hut with far-reaching views out over the marsh:

The Saltbox shepherd hut, our home for a night this week
A fabulous view from our bed

May is a time of billowing cow parsley and fresh new leaves on the oaks:

Probably the most memorable thing about this visit was the three cuckoos that were flying between the trees on the raised land around the farmhouse. Two of them were males and spent much of the time perched and calling from a large willow just behind our hut.

A digiscoped image taken from a considerable distance away of one of the cuckoos calling from the tree behind the Saltbox

Unfortunately I didn’t manage to get a better photo of them, but these silhouettes below show their long, pointy wings as they flew around in the gathering dusk:

We discovered a couple of interesting things about cuckoos that we hadn’t known before. The first thing is that they are often still calling as they fly, and the second and rather surprising thing is that they continued calling right through the night. This was close to where we were sleeping and, although it didn’t disturb me, it gave Dave a bad night and had indeed sent him a little bit cuckoo by the morning.

Cuckoos famously parasitise other birds by laying an egg in their nests. The cuckoo egg will then be the first to hatch and the young bird will push all the other eggs out of the nest. One of their favoured hosts is the reed warbler and we certainly heard a lot of these birds amongst the vegetation of the marsh.

Cuckoos also specialise in eating hairy caterpillars which are avoided by other birds because the hairs irritate their gut. We did see many hairy caterpillars on the reserve, such as lots of lackey moth caterpillars on the oaks, with their smoky-blue stripes and face, and vast numbers of brown-tail moth caterpillars on hawthorns down on the marsh. The female cuckoo should have plenty to eat as she waits for a reed warbler to leave its nest unattended for a moment so that she can sneak in unnoticed.

Another memorable sight this time was of a goldfinch sitting on her nest incubating her eggs:

What a wonderful sight this was
This is the female because the red patch on her face doesn’t extend behind her eyes. In fact it is female goldfinch who do most of the incubation while the male brings food in to her

However, I am sad to report that things all went horribly wrong for this nest. By the next morning it had been raided:

A single egg dangling forlornly from the devastated nest. I read that goldfinch are likely try again if this happens and I wish them better luck next time

A third memorable thing was hearing two booming bitterns from different areas of the reserve. Sounding a bit like someone blowing across the top of a bottle, this is a loud and amazing sound to be emanating from out of the marsh.

The reserve is managed for breeding redshank and lapwing in particular although, if conditions are right for them, they are also right for much else. We certainly saw plenty of both of these two species but it seemed that we were too early for their chicks. Next year we should perhaps go later in May.

A redshank preening, as seen from the hides
Lapwings were tenaciously sitting on eggs all over the reserve

We were also too early for dragonflies, but surely not by much. This four-spotted chaser had just emerged as an adult and couldn’t yet fly:

Moorhen eggs, however, had already hatched. Some of the young were being kept around the shepherd huts to give them some protection from predators:

There are no badgers on Sheppey, and foxes, stoats and hedgehogs are controlled on the reserve. But one predator in particular would still be a problem for the chicks – the marsh harrier:

In May last year we saw a marsh harrier making off with a chick:

The really pale wings of the male marsh harrier

Marsh harriers are also very keen to catch leverets if they can. There are so many hares at Elmley and we got a good look at one of the adults enjoying the sunshine:

Not only do they have really long hind legs….

…their front legs are also surprisingly lengthy:

Like the moorhen chicks, some of the leverets are parked by their mothers amongst the shepherd huts, offering some sanctuary from the harriers. Back in May 2023 there was a particularly tame one:

Some other birds that we spotted this time at Elmley:

There were several cattle egrets watching out for invertebrates disturbed by the hooves of the cows
We haven’t seen spoonbill for a long time
There were three of these amazing birds viewable from the hides
A lot of avocets were there too, although no chicks as yet
Space on the tern raft was mostly taken by nesting black-headed gulls but there were some common terns around. These two were displaying to each other
The beauty of the reserve contrasts sharply with the backdrop of industry across The Swale on mainland north Kent

It is always lovely to see yellow wagtails at Elmley:

The red-listed yellow wagtail is a summer visitor to the UK, unlike our pied and grey wagtails who are both resident. I like his long, bright yellow thighs

The female on the right below is so much paler than the male on the left, now in his breeding plumage

In winter everyone gets terribly excited about the owls at Elmley, me included. A lot of this is because of the thirty or so short-eared owls that roost in a field by the car park and are often easily viewable.

A short-eared owl seen at Elmley in January 2024

At the end of the winter, most of these short-eared owls leave, travelling north to Scandanavia, Russia and Iceland to breed. However, last year at least two pairs of short-eared owls stayed put and bred on the reserve, successfully fledging several young. This May there are once more short-eared owls remaining at Elmley and the hope is that they will again be breeding. We saw one of these owls out hunting as we went on a dusk tour with a nature guide:

A short-eared owl with its really long wings out at dusk in May

Little owls are on the reserve all year. If you are on a nature tour, you are usually taken off the path to see the little owl nest box at the back of the old school house:

Little owls are nesting in this box and the next morning we saw one of the adults sunbathing amongst the ruins:

Barn owls are also resident at Elmley and there are apparently several pairs nesting there this year. Unfortunately we didn’t see a barn owl this time but I include a photo of one from a previous trip:

Long-eared owls also still remain on the reserve this spring, roosting in the day by the car park. However, they are very difficult to spot, especially when the trees have leaves. We did see one back in January though:

The best way to see them at this time of year is to wait for them to emerge at dusk. But, although we sat on a bench by the car park with the nature guide for a while, we weren’t lucky enough to spot one this time.

So once again we had a wonderful nature experience at Elmley. We were only there for 24 hours but saw so much.

We plan to return for a winter visit in January. Those noisy old cuckoos will be long gone by then and Dave will be hoping for a better night’s sleep.

The Trouble with Cubs..

We have returned from France to discover that inexperienced, young fox cubs were wandering round the meadows on their own and, before very long at all, there was an unfortunate incident with a fox cub in the dog’s mouth. Thankfully she doesn’t have many teeth these days and we were close by, so we quickly had the little cub on its way again, scampering back onto the cliff with no damage done. But it was all very stressful and we are now having to strictly control the dog to avoid this happening again.

There are often cubs out on the paths as we go round the meadows. There seem to be three separate litters this year and they are everywhere:

The dog is now only allowed out on a lead until these cubs grow up a bit:

They are ridiculously sweet:

This cub is from the den at the top of the meadows.

Cub amongst the buttercups

Although this next photo gave me a bit of a shock:

The rabbit doesn’t have a head and so I presume that the cub has been handed this prey by a parent

There is a second fox den in the lower far corner, in the area that we call the amphitheatre. There are at least four cubs here and it is one of these that was recently found in the dog’s mouth:

Four cubs curled up in the amphitheatre

A camera looking at the hole under fence is giving us some lovely views of these amphitheatre cubs:

I particularly like this photo of two of the cubs viewing some pigeons with interest:

There has been a lot of food being carried in. This looks like it is some sort of bird:

And this looks like a little chick:

The third den is on the cliff below the house and we are seeing these cubs in the back garden. They have a slightly different look to them:

Here one is out with a parent:

One of the fox families relaxing by the pond in the early evening:

Back in 2022 it was another sort of cub that was causing us problems as we tried to keep it safe from the dog:

A badger cub scurrying away from us as we walked round the meadows. There were three cubs that year and I am not sure if it was just one or all three of them that were often out in the meadows during the day

In June of that year the dog discovered one of the cubs fast asleep above ground in the shrubbery flanking the garden. We decided that this was such unusual behaviour that we called the RSPCA who took it off to a vet to be checked over. It was declared to be fine and released back into the meadows a couple of hours later:

The RSPCA releasing the cub back into the meadows in 2022

But sadly things didn’t end well. There was a terrible drought here that summer and none of the three badger cubs survived.

This year there is a single cub and to date it has remained firmly underground during daylight hours, thank goodness. It’s an absolute fluff ball:

The mother is holding it down here so that she can clean it:

But the cub is really being rough-housed by its father here:

Over the years we have often seen male badgers throwing their weight around with the cubs like this and no harm ever seems to be done. This cub was back on the camera ten minutes later on its own and none the worse for the experience

A lovely photo of last year’s cub, now nearly an adult:

And I think this is the mother badger emerging from the burrow by day:

My sister who lives in Berkshire often has lots of dogs visiting her. One of them must have discovered a mallard nest in long grass at the bottom of her garden and scared the female duck off the eggs:

The garden is in a rural location near the River Loddon and I am envious of their bats in the attic, red kites nesting in their trees and barn owls perching on the floodlights on the house. But a mallard nest was a first for them so they took advice and put a wire fence around the nest to protect it from the dogs. Initially the female duck did return and resume incubating the eggs, but unfortunately subsequently abandoned the nest despite their best efforts.

Whilst we were in France our pair of mallards continued their daily visits to the pond in the meadows just before dawn. They will have had a nest with eggs tucked away somewhere like the one in my sister’s garden. Before leaving the nest each morning to come to the pond, the female duck will have hidden her eggs with feathers plucked from her own breast to protect them from predators:

These ducks have stopped visiting now, so hopefully the eggs have hatched and the female has led her ducklings to the relative safety of water where they are out of the reach of foxes looking for food for their cubs

The two swifts are settling back into their box again after their long journey up from Africa:

The pair of swifts in the box on 6th May

So far they have added some strands of dried grass and a single feather to the black circle of last years nest:

But no egg has appeared as yet.

Now that it is May, more butterfly species are starting to emerge:

Wall butterfly on hawthorn
And a beautiful green hairstreak displaying the white ‘hairstreak’ on its hind wing. After two years with very low green hairstreak numbers here, there seem to be a lot around again this year which is really good news
A delicate small copper down on the ground

Two ‘blue’ butterfly species have been seen so far. The holly blue:

And the small blue:

We should also be seeing common blue and brown argus as well at some point.

I have an on-going project to attract more species of blue butterflies to the meadows and I am targeting my efforts on the adonis blue and the chalkhill blue, neither of which have ever been seen here. The larval food plant for both of these species is horseshoe vetch, plugs of which I planted onto the new chalk banks constructed during the building of our garage two years ago. This vetch is now doing really well and flowering profusely:

I am hoping that this will eventually encourage a colony of adonis or chalkhill blue butterflies to become established here. Maybe this will be the year, who knows

Over in the wood, I like this set of three photos taken by a trail camera looking at a hole in the ground:

A passing badger
A curious fox
A vigilant rabbit

A photo taken elsewhere in the wood shows a vixen that is clearly nursing young. There are no rights of way close to the wood and these cubs of hers should at least be safe from dogs:

Bullfinch always nest in the woods:

I have been seeing a firecrest at this pond throughout the winter and was really pleased to see it still visiting in May. Could it be nesting? Although our wood doesn’t have conifer trees, there are plenty in the wider wood:

I think there are squirrels nesting in this owl box although there has been very little recent action on the camera. A stock dove did visit to see if it could nest in there though:

In contrast there has been a lot of activity at the green woodpecker nest:

But I can offer no explanation for this next photo showing the male bird flying away from the nest with an egg. What is going on?:

This little robin was singing so loudly and so beautifully in the wood that I stopped and listened to it for ages. It even posed for a photo:

My last photo today is this one which made me smile:

A Week Away in Languedoc

Although we have visited France many times over the years, there is still so much of it to see. We have just returned from a week in Languedoc in south west France which is an interesting area of the country that I had never been to before. We were part of a guided Naturetrek holiday but, while the rest of the group flew into Carcassonne, we took two nights to drive down through France to join them.

After taking the ferry from Dover to Calais, we stayed near Troyes on the first night, visiting the Champagne house of Drappier to buy a few bottles of their delicious champagne the next morning. It was then a long drive south to the tiny wine village of Gigondas just into Provence for the second:

A mountainous Gigondas vineyard in front of the Dentelles of Montmirail. We had returned to the family-run hotel of Les Florets in Gigondas where we had spent a few nights ten years previously. Since that time the wine of Gigondas has been one of our firm favourites

When we finally arrived in Languedoc on the third day, we saw that there must also be a great deal of wine produced there too. Every scrap of agricultural land in the region is covered in vines:

What is not suitable for vines is covered by the natural garrigue scrubland vegetation:

Our hotel for the week was in a little village near Narbonne, close to the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Spanish border.

The area of Languedoc that we covered on the holiday

There were fourteen of us in the group and two guides, Jason and Martin, and for the next week we travelled around the region in two minibuses.

Each day we visited numerous wildlife hotspots as well as several interesting Cathar sites over the course of the week. The Cathars were a religious people that lived in Southern Europe between the 12th and 14th centuries. But the Catholic Church saw their beliefs as a threat and persecuted them over many years until the Medieval Inquisition eventually wiped them out in 1350. By that time about one million people had been slaughtered
The imposing Cathar castle at Quéribus
The town of Minerve, built on a rock in the middle of a gorge, was a stronghold of the Cathars
A model in the town museum depicting the siege at Minerve in 1210, when Christian Crusaders – mainly French but some English as well – surrounded the town. The steep gorge made it virtually impossible to storm but the Crusaders had four trebuchets with which to bombard the town with rocks. After a month, Minerve fell and 140 Cathars who had refused to repent for their beliefs were burned at the stake

The weather was calm and dry all week. However, France had had an unusually wet winter and early spring, resulting in many more mosquitos around than normal. This was a problem on the first day when we weren’t properly prepared for them and all got badly bitten. As a result we remained swathed in long sleeves and trousers for the rest of the week despite the heat, although few mosquitoes were subsequently encountered.

Jason and Martin prepared an al fresco picnic lunch for us every day, which we always ate surrounded by beautiful nightingale song. In fact nightingales were singing wherever we went in the countryside throughout the holiday

We saw around 120 species of bird over the course of the week, many of which Dave and I hadn’t seen before. I managed to get photos of some of them:

A young Bonelli’s eagle. The purple ring shows that this bird was ringed in its nest somewhere in France. This is a non-migratory eagle species that eats rabbits and medium sized birds but the global population is estimated to be only 21,000-24,000
A short-toed snake eagle. This is a migratory, snake-specialist eagle with a global population of 94,000
70-95% of this eagle’s diet is made up of snakes, the rest being lizards. It is unusual amongst eagles because it has the ability to hover like a kestrel whilst it scans the ground for its prey and this is what it was doing here
We saw short-toed snake eagles most days. We were watching one when another one dramatically shot in from the side and locked talons with it, but unfortunately I only managed a photo once they had broken apart again
A blue rock thrush was one of the birds I particularly wanted to see. Jason played its call on his phone at the Gorge de Galamus and three males answered him, which was very exciting. We finally managed to spot one of them as well
I had never seen a Kentish plover before but here is a male with his very dark and incomplete breast band
We stopped in the little village of Fleury for coffee because it is known for its population of lesser kestrels. There are some small differences in appearance between our normal kestrels and these lesser ones, but the really obvious difference is that lesser kestrels live in groups in towns. We must have seen about ten of them flying around the rooftops of Fleury
We also saw a spotless starling in Fleury. Closely related to our common starling but without any spots in summer
Serins were singing their little hearts out in Fleury and in every other village we visited..
House martins were putting the final touches to their nests in the eaves of some of the houses. Swifts were also flying around the villages – I was so envious of how many of them were around. Good to know that they would be catching all those mosquitoes for us as well
There were quite a few cirl buntings to be seen too
A punky young grey heron sticks its head up in its nest. In this photo it looks like there is also a stork in the nest, but the stork nest was immediately behind the heron’s
In France, greater flamingos only breed in The Camargue, so these pale ones hanging out in Languedoc will be young non-breeding birds
Although it was a bit early for rollers to arrive, Jason spotted one on the last afternoon. An extremely colourful bird but a shame it wasn’t a bit closer. Other notable birds seen were great spotted cuckoo, whinchat shrike and lesser bustard but I didn’t manage to get photos of these
Although the winds were not really in the right direction, we spent a while at a coastal bird migration watch point at Leucate, along with a group of cool young French people who were conducting an official count of the arriving birds
They had a board showing this year’s arrivals to date compared with the totals from previous years. They had counted 121,931 common swifts (Martinet noir) shooting in over their heads so far, and it’s been a good year for chaffinches (Pinson des arbres), serins and starlings (Étourneau sansonnet )

But it wasn’t all about the birds. We saw a lot of butterfly species too.

Scarce swallowtail
Glanville fritillary
Spanish gatekeeper

There were many orchid species to be seen at this time of year as well. Everyone got very excited by the rare large flowered bee orchid:

The large flowered bee orchid, Ophrys magniflora
Woodcock orchid
Bee orchid

We didn’t see any snakes during the week but we did see several species of lizard, including these amazing Moorish geckos which looked like mini crocodiles:

Moorish gecko

The ends of their toes were flattened against the wall:

We also found these sweet little parsley frogs, and this one required moving to safety:

Many invertebrates were seen, photographed and identified over the course of the holiday but I include just two species of spider here because this post is already getting rather long:

Philaeus chrysops is the largest and most beautiful jumping spider in Europe. They are called the most beautiful not because of this rather dowdy female, but because of the males who have wonderful red and black abdomens
This is a Napoleon spider because the black markings on her abdomen are said to resemble the silhouette of Napoleon wearing his iconic hat. The females come in three colour forms – yellow here, but also bright red and startling white, enabling these spiders to hide in a range of different flowers

We very much enjoyed our exploration of Languedoc, and the week spent with a group of interesting and like-minded people.

A view of the pinkish waters of the salt pans. A lot of salt is produced along the Languedoc coastline
Huge piles of salt
Kite surfing at La Franqui was terrifying to watch. I had no idea they went up that high

We drove back up through France, this time spending only one night halfway up the country in the fortified town of Langres. The Hotel de la Poste is apparently the oldest hotel in France and, although we have stayed there several times before, it has to be twenty-five years since we were last there. The hotel is the whole of this building and its eccentric roofline is very memorable:

We returned home to Kent and were delighted to find that our pair of swifts had arrived back before us:

I wonder if they were two of the 121,931 swifts that had flown past the migration watch at Leucate?