Lion Lodge and Pond Cottage

We like to get away with the dog in early spring and this year we headed west. We first stayed for a few nights in Lion Lodge, the gatehouse for Newark Park which is a National Trust property in Gloucestershire, built on the Cotswold escarpment with views out over the Severn Valley.

Lion Lodge, built around 1794. The really lovely thing was that the cottage was inside the gates of Newark Park and we had complete freedom to roam around the 700 acre estate when the gates were locked and no-one else was around
Early morning at Newark Park. Originally a Tudor hunting lodge built in the mid 16th century, it has been in the care of the National Trust since 1946. I did actually find the house and gardens a bit underwhelming as a visitor experience but we really enjoyed staying on the estate
This golden dragon weather vane is the only item at Newark that dates back to its time as a Tudor hunting lodge
There were several peacocks there and their atmospheric calls rang out over the grounds
The building was positioned at the edge of the escarpment to get good views of the hunt in the valley below
We thought the dog’s shadow in the March sunshine made it look like we were walking some kind of wolf rather than a dog

The prime reason for our stay in Gloucestershire was to catch up with our daughter who lives in Cheltenham. However, whilst we were there, we also wanted to visit the Golden Triangle. This is an area between the villages of Newent, Dymock and Kempley on the Gloucestershire/Herefordshire border where our British native daffodil grows wild and free. There used to be a lot of orchards there but, in the 1960s and 70s, these were largely ripped out and the land used to grow grain and potatoes. The daffodils have become increasingly limited to roadside banks and hedgerows but a few protected remnants of the old days still exist. We visited two small Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust reserves, Vell Mill Meadow and Gwen and Vera’s Fields, where our native daffodil still grows in profusion.

Vell Mill Meadow

The wild daffodil, Narcissus pseudonarcissus, is smaller than the planted garden varieties and has pale yellow petals surrounding a darker yellow trumpet. Although greatly declined, it can still be seen in woodland and damp meadows in parts of south Devon, the Black Mountains in Wales, the Lake District, and in the Golden Triangle along the Gloucestershire-Herefordshire border.

Gwen and Vera’s Fields reserve

After three nights at Lion Lodge we headed further west to Pond Cottage near Tavistock in Devon, just to the west of Dartmoor. Although Pond Cottage is now owned by The Landmark Trust, it sits within the estate of the Endsleigh Hotel.

Pond Cottage, complete with a rustic cow shed at the left hand end and a little dairy on a hummock alongside. It was built not just to adorn the landscape but also so that the Duchess of Bedford and her daughters could play at being milkmaids.

The 6th Duke and Duchess of Bedford built what is today the hotel in the early 19th century as a ‘cottage’ for themselves and their twelve children for when they wanted a break from their main home at Woburn Abbey. At the time they owned about a third of Devon and had the luxury of selecting the loveliest of spots:

The Endsleigh Hotel as viewed from the Tamar river

They commissioned the architect Jeffry Wyatville to build the house and several  other picturesque buildings within the estate such as Pond Cottage. The landscape gardener Sir Humphrey Repton designed the gardens, including a stream that tumbles over waterfalls and down through an arboretum, arriving into the pond at Pond Cottage before spilling out into the River Tamar.

The stream making its way down through a clump of giant Gunnera, just about to come out into leaf

The damp conditions around the stream meant that there were some fantastic lichens. I don’t know much about lichens but think that this magnificent specimen might be Peltigera horizontalis.

There were always grey wagtails poking around the stream and pond:

And lots of yellow spotted sedge, Philopotamus montanus – caddisflies that fluttered around the wet vegetation at this time of year:

Several imposing Sequoias rose high above the rest of the arboretum..

..and there were plenty of other wonderful trees as well:

The hotel has a long river frontage along the Tamar which is the boundary between Devon and Cornwall:
The Tamar has long been famed for its salmon and trout fishing. Although the population of salmon has dramatically declined in recent decades, the river is still seen as an important indicator of salmon stocks throughout England

When the Bedford family finally sold the estate in 1956 it was bought by a syndicate who formed the Endsleigh Fishing Club, still retaining the atmosphere of a privately-run house. However, things started to increasingly fall into disrepair and the Landmark Trust bought three of the buildings in the grounds during the 1970s and 80s in order to save them – Pond Cottage, the Dairy and Swiss Cottage. In 2005 the remainder of the estate, including 108 acres of grounds, was bought by Olga Polizzi and transformed into a very comfortable hotel. We stayed in the hotel back in 2013 and have lovely memories of that time.

We were surprised to find this sale board discarded in the grounds which presumably dated back to the 2005 sale
Walking up to the Hotel Endsleigh for morning coffee

Given that it was Dartmoor in March, we had a week of pretty amazing weather and were able to spend four days walking up on the moor.

The Dartmoor ponies have started to have their foals
We hadn’t done much walking on the western part of Dartmoor before and were pleased to discover the dismantled Princetown Railway which offered fantastic views across the moor whilst expending very little effort
Dartmoor is packed full of prehistoric relics such as this stone row at Merrivale
Vixen Tor is on private land and, controversially, public access is no longer allowed. It is still possible to get sufficiently close for good views though
Another view of Vixen Tor showing just what a dramatic tor it is. A tor is a granite outcrop on top of a hill but it is difficult to pin down exactly how many tors there are on Dartmoor – a Dartmoor National Park factsheet I found says there are at least 365
Unusually, Hucken Tor is within a wood
Foggintor quarry, where granite was quarried from 1820 to 1906. The stone for Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square came from here
Dave giving perspective to the enormous size of Swell Tor quarry

There was a lot of ‘swaling’ going on the moor when we were there – the farmers are allowed to burn the heather, gorse and other moorland vegetation between 1st October and 31st March to encourage new growth for the sheep to graze. Since it was getting on towards the end of March, time was fast running out to get this job done:

It all looked a bit scary to us
Setting fire to the vegetation

When Dave and I first started visiting Dartmoor on a regular basis back in June 2013, we hired a wildlife guide because we really wanted to see the Ring Ouzels that were known to breed there. But, despite extensive searching on two separate days, we unfortunately failed to find a single one.

A Ring Ouzel from Wiki Commons by Steve Garvie CCA-SA 2.0

The number of pairs of breeding Ring Ouzel on Dartmoor had been in decline for some time but Tavy Cleave, a remote valley in the north-west militarised zone, became their last stronghold not just on Dartmoor but for the whole of Southern England. Sadly they are now almost certainly gone from Tavy Cleave as well. The reasons for the decline are unclear but climate change, grazing patterns and problems at their over-wintering sites and on migration are all potential factors and these aren’t problems that are going to be solved anytime soon.

We had never visited Tavy Cleave before but did a walk there this week.

There has been a military zone on Dartmoor since the Napoleonic Wars two hundred years ago. During the Second World War the zone extended over the whole of the moor but it has since been retracted to just the north west section. Enormous red flags fly from the tops of the tors on the boundaries of the zone on the days that firing is taking place
Passing the red-and-white poles and entering the restricted zone at the weekend when the flags were down
Walking up Tavy Cleave alongside the Wheal Jewel leat with Ger Tor and Hare Tor in the distance
The jointed granite outcrop at the top of Ger Tor

Although Ring Ouzels do start to arrive back in the UK from mid March, we certainly didn’t see one on our walk up Tavy Cleave. If we want to see breeding Ring Ouzels now, we are going to have to take ourselves further north.

It was lovely to get away but, as always, I was itching to get home to see how spring was getting on back in Kent. But it certainly won’t be long before we return to Dartmoor once more – although we are most unlikely to ever get such good weather there again.

3 thoughts on “Lion Lodge and Pond Cottage

    1. There must surely be breeding ring ouzels in the Lake District… just done a quick search and RSPB Haweswater or RSPB Geltsdale (which I don’t know) seem to be suggested. Perhaps something to try another year. I’d love to see Ring Ouzel in their iconic upland habitat.

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